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Have you ever been faced with the
prospect
of saying "no" to a potential buyer?
Here are some guidelines to help
you select the
right home for your precious kittens.
Always be ready to say NO at any time
during the screening process.
Breeders must give serious thought to
placing kittens in new homes. All breeders suffer doubts when they are approached by
prospective buyers for a kitten. These concerns are very real for the committed breeder.
Ask yourself, "Is this HOME really the home I would choose for my kitten?"
Many first impressions can be gained when
enquiries are made by telephone if you ask the right questions at the outset. Here are ten
points to help you decide.
Why are they interested in my particular
breed?
If you are a longhaired breeder, do they
realise that daily grooming is part of the maintenance and care of their cat?
What is their attitude to declawing? (See photo
guide to clipping of claws)
What sort of neighbourhood do they live
in? Is it a house, town house or high-rise flat etc. and whether the house or town house
is close to a busy street?
Do they have dogs?
Do they have young children and what
their ages are?
What sex and colour kitten do they want?
Explain the necessity of spaying and
neutering the kitten when the time comes.
Are they intending to show or breed?
State your price and advise the buyer of
routine inoculation and deworming already given.
If the answer to the first question is that
they have recently lost an elderly, loved cat, of the same breed, you can be fairly
confident that they will be suitable new owners. And, particularly if the breed chosen
happens to be of the Persian variety, they will be conscious of the need for regular
grooming. This can be a boring, arduous task and a burden to some. All too often, people declaw their cats to
"protect" their furnishings. Many vets are blackmailed into performing this
surgery with the threat that "if the cat is not declawed, they will have no
alternative but to put it down." Children are just as destructive, and sometimes far
worse, but do we ever suggest that their finger tips should be amputated? It is not that
difficult to train cats to use scratching posts. Cats are so intelligent, they con us into
believing that they cannot be trained! It is far better to explain and to show
prospective owners how clipping of claws is done.
Related link: photo
guide to clipping of claws.
I once had a buyer, who during
discussion asked me what was the appropriate age to declaw a cat. You can imagine my
reply! I dare not repeat it here, as I know that this is a family publication!
The location of their residence is also
very important, particularly if you breed shorthairs. Burmese are known to have a penchant
for wandering and often come to a sticky end, either by being run over or by having
neighbour's dog turning it into an "unconsidered trifle." Therefore, a home in a
busy suburban street is not the best environment for an adventurous Burmese.
Most garden walls present no great obstacle
to cats because of their agility. Would the new owner be prepared to 'cat-proof' their
property? Or keep it as an indoor cat and allow it out under supervision only? Cats that
have never had the opportunity to roam do not miss it! Millions of cats around the world
spend their entire lives indoors.
Think twice, too, if the other resident
pets include dogs of the Terrier group. American Pit Bulls, Bull Terriers and
Staffordshire Terriers are known to be 'cat-haters'; the list is much too long to
enumerate completely here, for there are many other breeds where one needs to be careful.
We are all aware of many people who do have dogs of the breeds mentioned and do not have
any trouble, but these dogs have invariably been brought up in a household where there
have always been cats. But a word of caution, with a new kitten, the dog may forget its
good manners and the buyer could end up with a very expensive, dead new kitten.
The matter of children is not dissimilar in
many ways. It is better that parents and their children all come to see the 'new kitten'
together. Are the children boisterous and how do they react to being told to behave? This
is the only way you probably can assess whether the kitten could cope with the children.
You will have to judge for yourself, too, how the children handle a kitten. It is never
advisable to leave young animals in the company of toddlers without supervision. If you
find the behaviour of the children objectionable and unresponsive to their parents'
discipline, it may well result in you having to take the kitten back when it starts
attacking them in self defence. The poor kitten would be a highly disturbed and neurotic
cat which you may never be able to place satisfactorily.
It is always wise to establish how the
children's mother feels about an 'addition' to the family. Most mothers are the ones who
usually have to care for new pets. As we all know, children will promise to care for their
kitten, but as it matures and the novelty wears off, they may neglect the cat, and if the
cat is a longhair, the results can be catastrophic!
People who really love cats, seldom worry
about the sex of their kitten if it is bought as a pet. Occasionally, a buyer may insist
on a female kitten, and when asked why, their response is usually that females don't spray
or wander. Very few 'lay' people realise that female cats do spray too. The objection that
male cats spray is pretty valid. However, if the cat is neutered at the appropriate age,
this habit will not be a problem. Cats that have been neutered may start spraying if their
'territory' is being invaded by strange entire toms or if there is overcrowding of the
resident feline population. As for wandering, a cat that has not been neutered, will at
some time in its life go looking for companionship of the opposite sex. And, sometimes
with disastrous results.
If the buyer has approached you for a
kitten and they intend breeding and showing, the technique is obviously very different.
It is amazing how many people who buy a
kitten and on their way home often start calculating what "profit" the breeder
must be making and are possibly lured into thinking that they too, can make a quick buck!
All they saw of the litter was a bunch of happy, healthy, frolicking kittens. They do not
know of the hours of dedicated effort needed to produce healthy kittens, or of the past
heartbreaks. Possibly an emergency caesarian that had to be done in the middle of the
night or the fact that you lost the entire litter afterwards; or persistent diarrhoea that
eluded the best efforts of your vet; or, of the occasion when an adventuresome kitten fell
from the pelmet and broke it's back and had to be euthanased? Very few breeders ever tell
of these tragedies unless it is to their closest buddies.
Calamities apart, you will have established
by now that the buyer wishes to breed and hopefully to show. You are going to have to be
very patient when you explain the good points and the faults of your breed. Also, the
necessity of participating in shows for breed assessment. And why the kitten you do have
available is not a suitable breed or show quality specimen. It is very difficult to
persuade an excited and determined buyer to wait for a better cat. They always want it
now! There are seldom top quality 'instant kittens' immediately obtainable from successful
breeders as most breeders will have either selected them for their own breeding programmes
or will have placed the best first. Few hold back their finest for last unless they have
ulterior motives.
Further explanations will be needed about
why it is better to start with a female kitten rather than a male, and to rationalize why
it is best to leave stud work to those who have experience. Again most 'laymen' are
unaware that a stud tom has to be confined and that he needs at least five brood queens to
keep him happy. Again, the campaigning of their stud cat will be necessary, both as an
advertising strategy and to assess his worthiness. Most breeders prefer to select a stud
with a title as it is an indication of the cat's excellence. Many first time owners of
queens have moggie litters of kittens as they lack experience. Far too many ask when they
can expect their cat to come into season. Not even vets can figure out when any queen can
be expected to call. Some shorthaired queens can be extremely precocious, starting as
early as four months, when she herself is still a kitten. The longhaired cats are usually
'lazy' and may only call when they are over a year old.
All litters of kittens, no matter whether
they are sired by a top stud or the local tom cat, cost the same to raise. Very few
'laymen' realise that breeders tend to spend a great deal of time in a vet's consulting
rooms, far more than an ordinary pet owner. Most novice breeders are unaware of just how
expensive a hobby breeding is.
I have made it my policy to register most
of my kittens not for breeding (NFB) since this option became available to breeders. This
has not affected the sale of kittens at all. Bona fide breeders who want to buy a kitten
from me, pay the same price as the person who buys a pet. However, I do draw the pet
buyer's attention to the fact that the kitten has been registered not for breeding, and
tell them that if they decide they want to breed later, I need to see the cat and reserve
the right to lift the restriction or not. They are also told that if the restriction is
lifted, they will be liable to a further fee of R500.00! I have yet to lift any NFB on any
kitten registered in this way or purchased under these conditions.
Finally, PRICE! If the purchaser finds the
initial cost of the kitten too high, you can be pretty certain that they cannot really
afford to have a cat at all! The cheapest part of acquiring a pedigreed kitten is the
purchase price. After all, the kitten will need its booster vaccination, regular deworming
(more so if they have young children) and annual boosters each year. There may be other
veterinary costs: an abscess, teeth cleaning or other essential medical treatment. We all
know that veterinary care does not come cheap.
Quality diet is also pretty expensive these
days. If they are truly caring owners, they will need to board their cat when they take
their annual holiday. Unfortunately, the total after care of a kitten is expensive.
If after your exhaustive enquiries, you
have any shred of doubt, it is best not to sell the kitten. Trust your instincts. You are
under absolutely no obligation to sell just because they have made the effort to come and
see you.
The kittens you breed are your
responsibility. You have given much of yourself, with endless hours of love and care, to
raise healthy, bouncy babies. Take as much interest in the prospective buyer as an
adoption agency would over a human child. You would not like to see any of them harmed
just because you were unable to say no and all that interested you, was to make a sale!
But, there is an ultimate question each
breeder needs to answer honestly in the present tough economic climate: "If I am
unable to sell my kittens, can I afford to keep them myself?" If the answer is NO,
then they should not be breeding!

Author's Note:
This article was written for "The Gazette"
[published
1993]
- the newsletter of the
South African Cat Register.
Nothing has changed in all these years ..
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